The conumdrum of climbing....

This shot was taken by Luke today and shows me on the top pitch of an MVS - Ardus at Shepherds Crag in Borrowdale. At first sight, Shepherds would seem to be an odd choice for a weekend in May - and it would except for a freezing north wind that is currently visiting Cumbria; giving us good weather but oh so cold....Luke complained of cold fingers climbing on Ardus and I got cold belaying him on the top pitch of Donkey's Ears.

Today also highlighted an odd conumdrum with climbing in general and my climbing in particular. For a long time my biggest weakness has been in my head - yet today I sauntered up the first part of Ardus which is an unprotected slab with no problem; whilst finding the steep wall above much trickier - despite it being adorned with protection. The final pitch was the same - the polished nature of the small footholds as one left the traverse making me pause - despite having good gear; a huge void to fall into and being almost level with the bombproof belay.

Luke also found this - he labelled himself a "wuss" for bottling out of leading the top pitch of Ardus and struggled whilst seconding it - and yet led the top pitch of Donkey's Ears pretty steadily despite the risk of taking a 2 metre leader fall - his first - at one point. The elegant sequence I used to get over this section was in part due to my reach and also due to having a rope over my head!! Could I repeat the smooth flowing climbing and elegant balance shifts in the lead....herein lies the fun of climbing and the difference between leading and seconding. I have seconded E3/E4 (about my physical limit at the time) and whilst I was thoroughly knackered there was no emotion ever to compare with the main pitch of Sirplum which took me closer to my limit than I have ever been.....probably until we hit the South Face of the Marmolada and/or the Gran Pilastro in August...:-).

Right off to do some vital recuperation - at the pub.