Saturday 30 August 2014

The Jewelled Mountain..

Last day of the Whit trip was approaching; the forecast was good and Claire and I were vacillating over what to do....(at least one of these things was not unusual!!). We had done Canisp earlier in the week and had a little trip along Loch a' Bhraoin with the new tent - which was very good. First choice was An Tellach - however it was not 100% sure that our fitness levels would be up to such a mega route...so we went south.

Getting to Torridon took the scenic route - via Loch Maree and Gruinard Bay. After a brief panic at Gruinard where I thought I'd lost my midge hat (essential for me as the little horrors love me) we went for a paddle and then for a bit at the cafe in Gairloch. This is an amazing place for those who haven't been - a very odd place for an alternative cafe and one the best bookshops anywhere. We'd found it a couple of years before - driving round after Claire had hurt her knee on Ben Wyvis; it was a lovely place; very alternative and did a very nice chocolate fudge cake as well!!!

From the cafe the road follows Loch Maree down to Kinlochewe. We stopped for a quick photo or two of Slioch  (harassed by midges) and then headed down Glen Torridon. It was Claire's first visit to Torridon - you would have to be a little odd to not be impressed really. We stopped at the Coire Dubh car-park between the giants of Beinn Eighe and Liathach. A short leg stretch and some supper later it was starting to get a little midgy; so it was off to the Beinn Damph bar for a pint before retiring for the night...

Sgurr Mhor and the 'Horns' of Alligin
The night wasn't the best - there was no breeze whatsoever in the glen and it was hot and midgy - as it was the next morning, trying to put boots etc on was fun....Once out of the van and having run across the road to try and break clear of the little beasts it did soon become worth it however..as can be seen.

The path has been much improved since I last climbed Alligin (over 10 years ago and coming the other way - Horns first). It snakes up into the corrie and then ascends the headwall to the summit. Claire set a really good pace and we were soon able to enjoy the views from the summit of Tom na Gruagaich. Some deer were on one of the shoulders of the hill and the vast empty quarter of the Flowderdale Forest was also visible - as was the onward journey. This was also a Munro for Claire (not that she collects them at all - so I'm told...repeatedly!!).

The Horns with Beinn Dearg beyond
The onward view is spectacular with the drop and rise to Sgurr Mhor the main summit of Alligin and the 'horns' of Alligin beyond. Although they appear incredibly spectacular and exposed they are actually very easy in summer - a gentle scramble. I've never done them in winter (yet), however they are probably a good grade 1 - probably harder than the CMD Arete but a lot easier than Liathach or An Tellach...

Looking across at Beinn an Eoin
Looking across Loch Torridon 
We climbed into mist as we ascended Sgurr Mhor, which fortunately began to lift as we descended the steep ridge til we were under the Horns. Claire scrambled very well in her boots - which were more suited to scrambling than mine  for sure - and the Horns were over all too soon. The descent to the glen was on a path that was better than I remember it as well - we also began to see a few more people; almost all going the opposite way to us. It's a bit of a debate which way to go - I suppose going anti-clockwise (Horns first) gets them out of the way and spares people from being intimidated by them (as I was a child many years ago when Mum and I climbed Tom na Gruagaich); and you get lovely views out to sea...but then go our way around and you get amazing views of the wilderness of Flowderdale and the Torridon giants....six and two three's really.

Arriving back at the car-park in the hot sun was nice - no midges!!-  so we were able to relax and stretch out and reflect on what an amazing day it was - not a bad intro to Torridon and Alligin living up to it's name.




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